Even if you have the modest two-wheeler in your garage, with a high model aluminum frame or entry level carbon, a responsive drivetrain, and just the right types of wheels, it comes a time when the urge to upgrade it is too strong to resist. So, the question is this:
Many cyclists will tell you that it depends on what you’d like to achieve and how much you’re willing and able to spend.
Let’s say you want to ride and climb faster on your bike. In such a case, it makes more sense to upgrade the wheel set. And if you’re interested in becoming a stronger, experienced, and a better athlete, it makes a lot of sense to upgrade your power meter.
At the end of the day, cyclists have different reasons for upgrading their bikes. From our perspective, though, it all often comes down to enhancing performance and fun.
So, in this piece, we’ll look at some of the most awesome carbon upgrades that can give your bike a perfect touchup for better performance. So, let’s get to it:
Your bike is nothing without a frame. But that’s already too obvious to tell you, right? Perhaps the better question is:
Are you comfortable and impressed with your current bike’s frame? At the end of the day, you need to ensure the frame is up to the standard if you must get the most out of your cycling experience.
There are four types of bike frames in the market:
Aluminum and carbon frames are the most popular right now. And while we know that there are differences that set every piece apart, we feel that carbon fiber makes for the perfect upgrade.
Here’s why:
Carbon fiber is a perfect upgrade for a steel or aluminum bike because it’s strong, comfortable, smooth, stiff, and light. Because it's flexible, manufacturers are able to engineer the material to stay stiff in a specific direction and easily compliant in another. This means a carbon bike stays smooth on bumpy and rough terrains and stiff in the most important areas for easy pedaling.
Furthermore, carbon frames are superior to aluminum, steel, and aluminum frames in weight.
To be clear, the lightweight nature of carbon doesn’t compromise its strength. Even in comparison with other materials, it still remains robust despite the weight. However, you do have to keep an eye on the grade of the carbon, as some tend to have more fillers that practically add irrelevant weight to the material. Here at DIY Carbon Bikes, we use the most quality Toray carbon fibers.
Again, carbon frames are stiff yet very responsive. From a technical point of view, they’re easy to change lay up to enhance ride quality, something that isn’t possible with aluminum frames quite yet.
Now, if you’ve decided to upgrade the frame of your bike from aluminum or steel to carbon fiber, you’ll have to ensure you choose the right model. Check out all of our frames available at DIY Carbon Bikes to see what is best for you.
Do you need more performance than your bike currently gives? Then it’s time to replace your current wheelset with carbon wheels. While there are other types of bike wheels that you can buy, you want to give carbon wheels the first priority, and for good reasons.
Currently appraised for their deeper, aerodynamic hoops, carbon wheels on the road are overtaking alloy wheels in popularity and use. Not only are they lightweight in design, they also have an impressive weight to stiffness ratio.
Even at a significantly lower weight, experts have been able to produce carbon in more complex shapes. For manufacturers in the cycling space, this means the ability to produce performance-optimized rims for better cycling. It’s the higher rim that easily guides the air in wheels better, leading to less drag and therefore more speed to push your bike forward.
When in use, carbon wheels remain stiff to the feel, and this stiffness makes them better at cornering than aluminum wheels. As far as sprinting goes, carbon wheels excel at transforming every pedal stroke into speed, and it does so better than aluminum and alloy wheels.
With the advancement of disc brakes, carbon wheels also now do not suffer from overheating or braking issues.
On a mountain bike, carbon wheels allow for lighter weight for climbing and acceleration, stiffer cornering, more vertical compliance for comfort, and wider rims for lower pressures for grip, speed, and comfort. Carbon wheels are also lower maintenance as they stay stiff year after year without need for truing.
If a time has come when you feel like you want to have a supplier ride regardless of the nature of the terrain, a carbon fork will make a perfect upgrade for your bike. In other words, it’s an upgrade that will smoothen out your ride on bumpy and rough roads, so less impact is transmitted to your hands and your ride ends up being worth the while.
Again, carbon forks are just as lightweight as the frame made of the same material. So, if you replace it with your current aluminum fork, you end up shaving out more weight for better riding performance. It doesn’t matter if you’re interested in winning a race with your road bike or you want to tune up this part on your mountain bike, a carbon fork will be a great upgrade, or a good side fork for certain applications.
As we’ve mentioned, upgrading your bike, and how you do that, is entirely up to you. At the end of the day, the kind of upgrade you opt for comes down to two things: how much money you’re willing to spend and what you want to achieve at the end of the day.
If you have any questions about upgrading your bike, feel free to contact ty@diycarbonbikes.com
Written in collaboration with Bikeshaven.com
Carbon fiber all mountain trail bikes are awesome. They are light, nimble, stiff, and compliant with wide and light wheels for quick acceleration, improved descending and cornering, for overall fun AND speed.
But these bikes aren’t cheap... Here at DIY Carbon Bikes though we are about equipping you to build your own trail bike, customized for your budget and needs.
Below we will provide a build list and recommendations for a full carbon trail bike using our DCB F130 Trek Fuel Style Frame so you can build yourself a bike in the style of a Trek Fuel. However, both our prices and our weights are significantly improved over comparable Trek Fuel builds.
The base model of a carbon Trek Fuel bike the Fuel 9.7 costs $4,100 (with taxes at LBS) with no carbon wheels and weighs around 30 ibs. Our DIY Carbon Bikes Bronze build with similar components but with AM carbon wheels costs right about $3,200 (with NO taxes) and weighs 29 ibs. (If this base price is also too much for you, see our Crazy Affordable Build at the bottom of this blog which is $2,415, the price of Trek's absolute lowest model but ours has Carbon frame, wheels, and bars and weighs 29 ibs)
The mid-level carbon Trek Fuel bike, the Fuel EX 9.8 costs $6,000 (with taxes at LBS) and weighs around 29ibs. Our DIY Carbon Bikes Silver build with similar components costs $3,800 (with NO taxes) and weighs 27 ibs.
The high-level carbon Trek Fuel bike, The Fuel EX 9.9 costs $8,000 (with taxes at LBS) without fully upgrading to XX1 so it still weighs 29ibs. Our DIY Carbon Bikes Gold build that is full XX1 costs $5,700 (with NO taxes) and weighs only 25ibs!
You can even substitute for a SRAM AXS wireless groupset and a RockShox Reverb AXS wireless post for only $1,150 upgrade cost. This DIY Carbon Bikes Gold build that is full XX1 and AXS would make the build cost $6,800 (with NO taxes). The similar Trek Fuel 9.9 AXS model is $9,000 (with taxes at LBS).
Here is a discussion of the different components for the builds. Below you will also find build lists.
All Builds: All of the build lists use our DCB F130 Trek Fuel Style Frame. The frame is in the style of the Fuel frame and is suited for 140 of travel and is perfect for aggressive trail to light to moderate AM/Enduro riding.
Silver Build: For a balanced build we recommend the RockShox Pike Select It has wide 35mm stanchions for Trail/AM performance with the improved charger 2 damper. It is $699, and weighs 1900g.
Bronze Build: If your wanting to save some $ our Bronze Build recommends RockShox 35 Gold which has good performance with 35 stanchions and the older Pike charger damper. The price is only $499, but it’s hefty at 2500g.
Gold Build: If you are wanting the best performance and weight but are willing to spend the $ we recommend the Fox Factory 34 for our Gold Build. It has exceptional performance and is around 100g lighter than the Pike Ultimate at 1790g for $909.
All Builds: For the build we highly recommend our DCB Carbon Wheels. They are carbon, wide, and light, and are just as affordable as a set of aluminum wheels. For this build you will want to use our 29er AM/Enduro wheels. Any of our AM/Enduro wheels will be compatible as long as you choose Boost 15x110 / 12x148 spacing.
Silver Build: We recommend the Fastace Hub Wheels or Bitex Hub Wheels for a balanced build. They both offer 3 degrees of engagement allowing for quick engagement in rocky, rooty, and technical climbs.
Bronze Build: The Novatec hub wheels are a good option for our Bronze Build as they cost less, but they do not have as quick of engagement.
Gold Build: The highest performing hubs which we recommend for the Gold Build would be the DT350 Hub Wheels or Hope Hub Wheels but they are a significant upgrade of over $200.
All Builds: For all of our builds we recommend our AM/Enduro 29er 37mm (i31) rims. These rims are perfect for Trail riding and moderate AM/Enduro riding. They are wide internally for stable tires at low pressures and are still light for fast acceleration.
Spokes
Silver and Gold Build: For the most part we recommend our Pillar 1420 Spokes. These spokes are light and create a nice stiffness to compliance ratio. The upgrade is only $60.
Bronze Build: If you are looking to save $60 you can go with our Standard Spokes and they are just around 100g heavier.
Driver
Silver and Gold Builds: Use the SRAM XD Driver if you decided to use a SRAM 11 or Eagle cassette from our Gold and Silver build.
Bronze Build: Use the Standard driver for the Bronze Build with the NX cassette.
The compatible shock for this build is ANY 200 eye to eye shock. This includes 200x51 and 200x57 shocks.
Bronze and Silver Build: Our shock recommendation for the balanced build to accompany the RockShox Pike Select is the RockShox Monarch RT3. The shock performs very well with the upgraded damper and the DebonAir gives it a top of the line highly tunable coil-like feel. It is light at 250g, and reasonably priced at $325. The 200x51 provides 130mm of rear travel and the 200x57 provides 140mm of rear travel.
Gold Build: If you decided to go with the Fox 34 Fork for the Gold Build then the Fox Float DPS would be the rear shock to go with. It has similar performance to the Monarch, with a similar weight at 250g, but goes for $459.
Shock Hardware
Silver and Bronze Build: For the RockShox shocks two hardware pieces are needed to fit into the F130 frame. Both are 22.2x8 and one is needed for the top and one for the bottom.
Bronze Build: For the Fox shock two hardware pieces are needed as well. Both are 22.2x8 as well... one of the top and one for the bottom.
For the drivetrain on this build, we really like the SRAM Eagle 12 Speed. The price has come down and the 12 Speed offers 500% gear range. Even the cheapest Shimano 11 is still the price of SRAM NX Eagle, and the new Shimano 12 speed seems to offer no benefit over SRAM Eagle and requires a niche driver.
Silver Build: We recommend the SRAM GX Eagle Groupset for Derailleur/Shifter/Cassette/Chain. The cost of the groupset is $545 at 1723g.
Bronze Build: If you are looking to spend a little less and sacrifice mostly weight. The SRAM Eagle NX Groupset is $375 and 2011g
Gold Build: If you are looking to spend a little more $ to get the top of the line groupset at the lightest weight look to the SRAM Eagle XX1 Groupset $1495 at 1340g.
Gold Build AXS: Surprisingly its not that much more expensive to go ahead and go with the Sram XX1 Wireless AXS System Groupset. The groupset is the same weight and $2,000.
All Builds: All of these builds work with the BSA Dub Bottom Bracket.
Any brakes are compatible with this bike build, but we really prefer Shimano brakes for several reasons. First, as a DIY builder, Shimano brakes are just far easier to set up, and far less maintenance. Shimano brakes use Mineral oil which is less coercive. Also bleeding a Shimano a brake is much easier and less particular to get it right. Overall we recommend the new Shimano 4 piston brakes which are in upgrade in power with really no downsides.
Silver Build: For a balanced build we recommend the new 4 piston Shimano SLX Brakes Front and Rear. 4 piston brakes give a new advantage in stoping power. The SLX brakes are very reasonably priced at $348 for the set and truly offer no disadvantage. The small upgrade to XT brakes (pictured) does come with a heftier price tag at $420.
Bronze Build: If you are looking for the best price, we would say to go with the Shimano Deore 4 piston Brakes Front and Rear. They are go for $200 and weigh 630g and still perform very well with very low maintenance.
Gold Build: If you are willing to spend the most money for the lightest set you can grab the 4 piston Shimano XTR 4 Piston Brakes and they will be $649 and 620g and have a little more adjustability over the XT brakes.
Recommended Rotors
All Builds: We recommend the simple, affordable, yet powerful and durable Shimano SM-RT56 180 front and 160mm rear rotors. They are $30 for the set. 270g This bike runs best with a 180mm up front and 160mm in the rear for the most balanced and powerful braking.
We LOVE Maxxis tires! In our experience they are the best tires for the money. The tubeless set up is so easy and sets up flawlessly on our DCB rims with a hand pump, the compound is supple, light, and long lasting, and the EXO protection makes them durable.
All Builds: For a build like this intended for Aggressive Trail/AM riding, we would recommend the Maxxis Minion DHF TR/EXO 29x2.5 and Maxxis Minion DHR II 29x2.3. The set costs $120. The Minion tires are perfect for aggressive riding conditions and still roll well. The 2.5 in the front is perfect as it is a little wider and better for slightly lower pressures ran in the front. The 2.3 rear allows for fast rolling and nimbleness with still a good amount of volume.
All Builds Alternative: If your looking for something a little wider and a little less knobby for supple riding with a lighter tire for faster riding a good combo is Maxxis Rekon TR/EXO 29x2.6 in the front and Maxxis Ardent TR/EXO 29x2.4
All Builds: AM/Trail riding does not exist today without a dropper post. Dropper posts are a dime a dozen, but we have found that KS eTENi Dropper Post with lever is a a super affordable at $135 and is internally routed option that is easy to set up and functions very well.
All Builds Wireless Alternative: If you are willing to spend a little more, we love wireless dropper posts...If you go with AXS wireless system and would like to match that system the RockShox Reverb AXS Dropper Post will work with that system for $800. The Magura Vyron eLECT Dropper Post is a more affordable option as it runs $499 and is 595g for everything.
Saddle
Silver and Bronze Builds: We love WTB saddles. They are extremely comfortable and well built. The affordable and quality saddle that we recommend is the WTB Volt Comp. The saddle is $35 and weight 316g.
Gold Build: If you are looking to shed a little more weight and spend more money you will have to go with a saddle with ti rails, and for the we recommend the WTB SL8 Saddle that weighs 200g and is $100.
All Builds: For handlebars and stem we recommend our DCB Carbon Handlebars. For a AM/Trail riding we recommend 760mm wide bars for $55 and 130g. They have a 15mm rise to give good leverage on the bar and have great weight and shock absorption. The wide bars are great for more control and opening up the lungs on climbs.
All Builds: For stems, we simply recommend a simple short alu stem for this build. They are light and well priced and get the job done. Specifically we recommend the Ritchy Trail Stem 60mm. Its only $35 and weight 130g. The wide bars pair well with short stem. The short stem creates handling that is fast and responsive, whereas the wide bars allow stability and control.
Grips
All Builds: We really love the ESI Extra Chunky These silicone grips feel great by providing shock absorption, are really light, and give a nice full feeling of control over the bar. They are $18 and weigh 80g.
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(see pictures and descriptions above! Links to build components below!)
Now its your time to build up your own dream AM/Trail bike! Below is summery of the three builds we have discussed. In the builds we have links to all the components. All the components besides the DIY Carbon Bike parts will send you to Worldwide Cyclery for purchase. Worldwide Cyclery is our partner in bike build components. They have great prices, shipping times, customer service, and selection. Simply add to cart to fill up your cart on Worldwide Cyclery with all the build parts and check out with both DIY Carbon BIkes and Worldwide Cyclery.
DIY Carbon BIkes 29er F130 Trek Fuel Style AM Trail Mountain Bike Build | |||
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Builds | Balanced Build (Silver) | Affordable Build (Bronze) | High Performance/Light Build (Gold) |
Avg Price | $3,800 | $3,200 | $5,850 (With FULL SRAM AXS $6,995) |
Weight | 27ibs | 29ibs | 25ibs |
Frame | ALL BUILDS - DCB F130 Carbon Full Suspension Frame - $775 - 2350g | ||
Fork | RockShox Pike Select - $700 - 1900g | RockShox 35 Gold - $500 - 2500g | Fox Factory 34 - $910 - 1790g |
Wheels |
DCB 29er AM/Enduro 37mm, Fastace Hubs 15x110/12x148, 1420 spokes, XD driver $605 - 1700g |
DCB 29er AM/Enduro 37mm, Novatec Hubs, 15x110/12x148, P14 spokes, Standard driver $525 - 1700g |
DCB 29er AM/Enduro 37mm, DT350 hubs, 15x110/12x148, 1420 spokes, XD driver, Upgraded 56t ratchet, $975 - 1600g |
Rear Shock | RockShox Monarch RT3 200x57 - $325 - 250g | RockShox Monarch RT3 200x57 - $325 - 250g | Fox Float DPS 7.875 x 2.25 - $479 - 250g |
Rear Hardware | TWO Rockshox 22.2x8 -$25 | TWO Rockshox 22.2x8 - $25 | Two Fox 22.19x8 - $30 |
Bottom Bracket | ALL BUILDS - SRAM BSA DUB Bottom Bracket - $38 - 130g | ||
Groupset | SRAM GX Eagle Groupset - $545 - 1723g | SRAM NX Eagle Groupset - $375 - 2011g |
SRAM XX1 Eagle Groupset - $1495 - 1340g SRAM XX1 Eagle AXS Groupset - $2,000 - 1340g |
Brakes | Shimano Deore 4 Piston Front & Rear - $200 - 630g | Shimano XTR - BR-M9120 - $649 - 620g | |
Rotors | Shimano SM-RT56 180f 160r - $30 - 270g | Shimano SM-RT56 180f 160r - $30 - 270g | Shimano SM-RT56 180f 160r - $30 - 270g |
Tires | ALL BUILDS - Front - Maxxis Minion DHF TR/EXO 29x2.5 and Rear - Maxxis Minion DHR II 29x2.3 - $120 - 1865g | ||
Post | ALL BUILDS - KS eTENi Dropper Post with lever - $135 - 700g | <-- OR RockShox Reverb AXS - $800 - 701g | |
Saddle | WTB Volt Comp - $25 - 316g | WTB Volt Comp - $25 - 316g | WTB SL8 Saddle - $100 - 200g |
Clamp | ALL BUILDS - Wolf Tooth Seat Post Clamp - $25 - 10g | ||
Handlebars | ALL BUILDS - DCB Carbon Handlebars 760mm 15mm riser - $55 - 130g | ||
Stem | Ritchy Trail Stem 60mm - $35 130g | ||
Grips |
ESI Extra Chunky - $20 - 80g |
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Are our three dream builds not in your budget? Below is our "crazy affordable" option. For those of you that have a small budget, but still want a good performing light full suspension AM Trail bike, this is the build for you!
(Read article below, watch full video below, OR go to 6:00 min on the video below to see how to order the right custom wheels for you)
In the world of Mountain Biking, everyone is always looking for the next upgrade. What is the newest technology? What is the best upgrade for my bike? There is no doubt that many would say that wheels are the best upgrade for any Mountain Bike. Particularly, carbon wheels.
Carbon wheels are light, and they are light where it counts... rotating mass. You will be faster on carbon wheels!
Carbon wheels are strong, and they stay true longer and are much stiffer than aluminum rim wheels. Carbon wheels will be lower maintenance!
Carbon wheels are wide, and this means you can run wider tires and run lower pressures for better feel and cornering. Carbon wheels will make your bike feel better!
The bad part is, carbon wheels can be expensive, but the good news is, we at DIY Carbon Bikes are here for you to find some amazing light carbon wheels at an affordable price.
When choosing MTB wheels on our website, the first question you want to address is diameter. If you already have a 29er bike, then you will need 29er wheels, but if you have a 27.5 bike, you will need 27.5 wheels. If you are building a bike, you must decide if you want a 29er or 27.5 frame, then you can select wheels to match.
The next question you want to address is the type of wheel for your riding conditions and style. We offer three types of wheels: XC/Trail, AM/Enduro, and Ultralight wheels. XC/Trail and Ultralight wheels are wheels that are best for rocky and rooty trail conditions and normal to small sized jumps and drops. AM/Enduro rims are meant for the gnarliest conditions and big jumps and drops. If you weigh over 260ibs or have a history of destroying rims, AM/Enduro rims will be better. If you weigh under 220ibs and are looking for the biggest race advantage on a largely dedicated race bike, then the Ultralight wheels might be best. For most others, XC/Trail are the best.
Once you have selected the diameter and type of wheel, the wheels are split by hub. All of our hubs use the same rims, but all of our rims can use different hubs. In order to choose your wheelset, you will want to choose which hub you want them built up on.
The most affordable hubs are the Novatec hubs. The hubs are still very quality and also light, but are not quite as low maintenance and high engagement as other hubs. If you are looking for a quality build at the best price, Novatec hubs may be the hubs for you.d
The most low maintenance hubs are the DT Swiss 350 hubs. These hubs are light, high quality, and easy to swap out parts. There is also an option for an upgraded high engagement ratchet. DT Swiss hubs though are a bit more expensive. If you have a history of breaking hubs, or just want the strongest and low maintenance hubs, DT Swiss 350 hubs may be the hubs for you.
Both the Fastace Hubs and the Bitex hubs are the best hubs for high engagement. Both of the hubs offer 3 degrees of engagement, with 120 rotating points. High engagement hubs are good for technical climbing where there is frequent short bursts to overcome an obstacle. In these situations the high engagement hubs allow quick, short, pedal bursts without pedal strikes. The Fastace hubs are a little heavier and less expensive; the Bitex hubs are a little lighter and more expensive. If your looking for the highest engagement hubs at the best price, Fastace or Bitex hubs may be the hubs for you.
Hope Pro 4 hubs are high quality and the most blingy with a great look and super high quality bearings and driver. The Hope Pro 4 hubs are a little heavier and more expensive. If your looking for the highest quality blingy hubs with the best look, Hope Pro 4 hubs may be the hubs for you.
For dedicated XC/Trail racing in Non-Boost spacing the Novatec 411/412 hubs are the lightest hubs. DT 240 hubs are the strongest hubs in Boost that are the lightest. But, DT 240 hubs are by far the most expensive hubs we offer. If you are looking for the lightest hubs for XC/Trail riding, the Novatec 411/412 or DT 240 hubs may be the best for you.
Once on the specific item, your first choice is the rim. Simply put, you can't go WRONG with any rim, if your diameter is right. Basically any MTB tire will fit on any rim, however, certain rims might be more ideal for certain types of riding.
Rims are first listed by the outside width. A 35mm rim has a outside width of 35mm. The rim is then listed by the i that refers to internal width, the d which refers to depth, and Asym or Sym which refers to if the rim is asymmetrical or symmetrical.
2.1 to 2.25 tires run ideally on a 27-30mm (22-25i) rim. 2.3-2.6 tires run ideally on a 35-37mm (29-31i) rim. BUT, if you wanted to slightly climb faster and that is your priority, 27-30mm rims will be better. If you would rather descend and corner slightly better then the 35-37mm rims will be ideal.
Asymmetric rims will be slightly stiffer for slightly more precise cornering and descent, whereas symmetrical rims will be slightly more comfortable and forgiving allowing for a slightly more comfortable descent.
When selecting front and rear hub spacing, you simply need to find the spacing that your current bike has, or the frame that you will be building up. If your having trouble look at your manufacturer website, take out a tape measure to get your measurements, or run your bike by a local bike shop so they can tell you the spacing.
There are two spoke options for MTB carbon DCB wheels. The Pillar 1420 spokes are basically 100g lighter and just as strong as the Standard Straight Gauge spokes, but they are a $60 upgrade. The Standard Spokes are heavier and also easier to find and replace. If you regularly break spokes or if you just want a more economical build, go with the Standard Spokes. If you are looking for a lighter building with little to no sacrifice in stiffness or strength, select the Pillar 1420 spokes.
The driver that you need depends on the cassette that you have on your bike. If you have a Shimano 9-11 speed driver train and cassette you will simply need the Standard Driver. If you have a SRAM 11-12 speed drivetrain and cassette you will select XD driver UNLESS your small gear on the cassette is 11t rather than 10t like the PG1130 or Eagle NX cassette, they take a Standard Driver. The new Shimano 12 speed drivetrains take a new and rare driver called Microspline. Microspline is only available on our DT Swiss hubs.
For every wheel order you can customize by selecting decal color, nipple color, and rim finish... all of these are related to appearance only
I hope this helps you to decide as you choose your mountain bike wheels! Now, simply go to SHOP CARBON and began building your custom wheelset for the greatest upgrade on your bike!
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